ISO 16212:2017 gives general guidelines for enumeration of yeast and mould present in cosmetics by counting the colonies on selective agar medium after aerobic incubation.
In order to ensure product quality and safety for consumers, it is advisable to perform an appropriate microbiological risk analysis to determine the types of cosmetic products to which ISO 16212:2017 is applicable. Products considered to present a low microbiological risk (see ISO 29621) include those with low water activity or extreme pH values, hydro-alcoholic products, etc.
Because of the large variety of cosmetic products within this field of application, this method might not be suited to some products in every detail (e.g. certain water-immiscible products). Other methods (e.g. automated) can be substituted for the tests presented here provided that their equivalence has been demonstrated or the method has been otherwise shown to be suitable.
Yeast enumerated can be identified using suitable identification tests, for example, tests described in the standards listed in the Bibliography. Mould enumerated can be identified by other appropriate methods, if necessary.